Cyrah Devi
Worth a Visit?
The Birmingham Christmas markets are known to be the biggest in the UK and are ranked the third most authentic in the world behind its original bearer Germany, and Austria. They are a well-known kickstart to the festive season that declare ownership of New Street, Victoria Square and Pigeon Park with a trail of light displays, £6 hotdogs and the drawls of ‘Chris The Singing Moose’. The crawl towards Christmas is strongly interlinked with its anticipation.
But when they’re here, do we really want them? They’re getting a bit old. A little like us who are no longer cross eyed at the sight of the glowing carousel and chocolate strawberries, but at the extortionate prices. It’s magical yeah, when it's not Friday night and you’re trying to get to the train station. But every step you take has you banging into someone, and force-fed an orchestra of jingles bells, preachers and buskers, battling from opposite ends of the street. The Christmas markets are like a Christmas song, it just sounds better in September.
On a November afternoon, I watched as Chris and his merry mates were carted around the high street, a key disruption to my usual scenery and a site I allowed to excite me. Not long after they were up and running and I had convinced my friends to visit.
A cold Friday night after a 4pm lecture. There’s a certain attire specific to the German markets, rooted in the legends of Mums who saw double layering their children in every piece of clothing as the key strategy to tackling the operation. Everyone else seems to know the old rule and abides, sporting long wool coats, bobble hats and scarves; kids fight to unzip their coats. It’s still freezing because you somehow always underestimate how cold standing around eating hotdogs can be.
It starts spitting. Warm chocolate crepes, roasted chestnuts, churros and mulled wine sweat in the sharp air, and on nipped cheeks. You’ve got to stop and awe at someone passing with a half-metre bratwurst. I’m dodging prams and the group walks in a single file looking for my bobbing head in the herd. Fairytale of New York plays under the rammed bars, groups of friend's crowd on the small tent tables, kids are covered in chocolate sauce, a drunk Santa barges past.
Though they are hell to walk through, and you’re probably in the background of several tourists' pictures looking bothered, they are a tradition. You really aren’t a Brummie until you’ve been to one, complained about it and made the vow to go and complain again.
Birmingham's Christmas markets will stay open until 24th December.
Opening times:
Monday – Thursday: 11am – 9pm
Friday – Saturday: 10am – 9.30pm
Sunday: 10am - 9pm
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